Introduction of GOTS Certification

Aim of GOTS

The aim of the GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) is to define requirements to ensure the organic status of textiles, from harvesting of the raw materials, through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing up to labelling in order to provide a credible assurance to the end consumer.

Scope and Structure of GOTS

GOTS covers the processing, manufacturing, packaging, labelling, trading, and distribution of all textiles made from at least 70% certified organic natural fibres. The final product categories may include, but are not limited to, fibres, yarns, fabrics, garments, textile accessories (carried or worn), textile toys, home textiles, mattresses, beddings as well as personal care textile products, and Food Contact Textiles.

GOTS defines criteria for textile producers, manufacturers, B2B operators as well as textile chemicals.

Key Features of GOTS

The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is the worldwide leading textile processing standard for organic fibres, including ecological and social criteria, backed up by independent third-party certification of the entire textile supply chain.

GOTS certification builds upon four distinctive and unique features:

Organic Fibers: A textile product carrying the GOTS label must contain a minimum of 70% certified organic fibers, a product with the label grade 'organic' must contain a minimum of 95% certified organic fibers.

Ecological and Social Criteria: GOTS evaluates the processing and manufacturing of textiles on the basis of both, environmental and social criteria. This means assessing everything from the chemical inputs being used to the ethical treatment of workers.

All Processing Stages: The standard covers the processing, manufacturing, packaging, labelling, trading and distribution of all textiles made from at least 70% certified organic fibers. All steps in the processing, manufacturing and trading of organic textiles are covered by GOTS.

Third-Party Certification: On-site inspection and certification of processors, manufacturers and traders is performed by independent Third-Party GOTS accredited Certification Bodies and forms the basis of the GOTS monitoring system. It serves to provide a credible assurance for the integrity of GOTS certified textiles.

Who Needs to be Certified？

The GOTS logo can only be applied to the final product if all stages comply with the GOTS criteria. Therefore, all processors, manufacturers, and traders of textiles need to be certified.

First Processing Stages

As a processing standard, certification according to GOTS begins with the first processing stage of textile fibers.

During an on-site inspection, a facility at the first processing stage should show evidence that organic and conventional fibers are never commingled to avoid contamination. This can be ensured via different storage locations, clear markings, proper storage and handling, etc.

Spinning

Spinners must purchase GOTS certified raw materials and maintain records of quantities purchased. Once more, consideration of wastage, volume reconciliation, and appropriate transportation documentation are some other steps that should be undertaken.

Any paraffin products used must be fully refined with a limited value for residual oil of 0.5%. Machine oils coming in touch with organic yarns must be heavy metal-free. Synthetic fibres, which are to be dissolved at a later processing stage, are not allowed to be used.

Weaving and Knitting

Natural sizing agents should be used. Limited usage of synthetic sizing agents is permitted as well. Machine oils coming in touch with organic yarns must be heavy metal-free.

Separation and identification of organic yarns, warp beams, fabric rolls, etc. must be ensured in storage and on the shop floor.

Fabric processors must purchase GOTS certified yarns and maintain records of quantities purchased. Wastage, volume reconciliation and transportation documentation shall be verified during an onsite audit.

Wet-Processing

Buying GOTS certified raw materials, maintaining records of quantities, consideration of wastage, volume reconciliation, and appropriate transportation documentation.

Chemical inputs used for wet-processing of GOTS Goods must be approved prior to their use.

For sizing, at least 75% of sizing agents should be of natural origin. For pre-treatment, ammonia treatment, as well as chlorination of wool are prohibited. Only oxygen-based bleaches like peroxide, ozone, etc. are allowed.

For dyeing and printing, there are additional curbs on allergenic dyes, carcinogenic and suspected carcinogenic colourants, as well as dyes containing heavy metal. To avoid exploitation of natural resources, the use of natural dyes and auxiliaries that are derived from a threatened species listed on the Red List of the IUCN is also prohibited.

For printing, there are limits for inputs containing permanent Adsorbable Organic Halides (AOX). Additionally, printing methods using aromatic solvents, phthalates or chlorinated plastics (e.g. PVC) are prohibited.

For finishing, the use of synthetic inputs is forbidden for certain treatments. These include anti-microbial, coating, filling, stiffening, lustring, matting and weighting. At the same time, finishing methods like sand blasting, which are considered harmful to workers, are prohibited.

Manufacturing

Manufacturing processes use a variety of accessories for functionality and/or fashion requirements. They must meet stringent criteria for residue of hazardous substances, following the following Restricted Substances List (RSL).

Machine oils coming in touch with organic textiles must be heavy metal-free. Separation and identification of organic products is essential. Buying GOTS certified raw materials, maintaining records of quantities, consideration of wastage, volume reconciliation, transportation documentation, etc. are necessary.

The Certified Weight shall be the weight of GOTS certified raw materials used in the final product, after reducing wastage. Clear computation of weight of accessories and additional fibers must be available for the purpose of volume reconciliation and Transaction Certificates.

Trading

Traders having a turnover of more than 20.000 Euro per year from GOTS Goods must become certified.

Traders that are not obliged to become certified, because their annual turnover with GOTS Goods is less than 20.000 Euro, must register with an Approved Certifier.

Retailers do not need to become certified but may voluntarily choose to become certified.

Some parameters are equally applicable to all processing stages under GOTS certification, like:

·Social Criteria

·Ethical Business Behaviour

·Environmental Management